Istanbul Bull - RECAP

Airport news...
After 2 missed flights in Russia.. I thought I would try for 3 times the charm in Istanbul. Kidding... I got here almost 2.5 hours ahead of time and my flight is delayed 2 hours... I might miss my connection to nepal... we will see....

Cultural notes...
Guys carry the girls handbags here! Women - will not smile at you. Turkish guys... are not timid. Everyone wants to know your story. Prostitution is legal here... I am going to blog about prostitution... In a separate entry.

The turkish business model of having a 4 m cube in which you sell the exect same thing as the 5 other stalls that surround you. Perhaps it is the extreme speciality of a stall that sells nothing but rubber wheels, safron, or kebaps. But they make it. And they show up each and every day. And they are happy. The religion and cultural values here are certainly Islam.. but Islam of a different right. I would say that about half of the women wear some type of head scarf and approximately 10 or 15 percent done the conservative muslim burka. Faith is certainly a part of life for the people of Istanbul - but so is eating, drinking, and partying.

ISTANBUL...
What an amazing city. By far.. my most favorite of the 9 countries I have visited so far. Amazingly romantic, old, boutique, and rich with history, culture, and diversity. The skyline crowned by minerets, roof top patios, and beautiful domes and surrounded by water in a Mediterranean climate... the skyline is absolutely beautiful.

Good food, affordable, and great weather. Loving it!!!

Yesterday was a memorable experience. I begin my day at the spice market - wandering the narrow alley ways in search of....absolutely nothing. Well, perhaps something - such as a new smell, a new color, a new friend. A new experience. Istanbul is home to the largest open air market / bazzaar in the world. The spice market is full of exotic spices, piled high with glaring colors... reds, yellows, purples, and greens. Turkish, Arabic, and myrid other languages float effortlessy through the warm fall air as the bustle of people bargaining, browsing, and experiencing the every day life of an average turk come to fruition. Not only the language, but there are so many other sounds. For example, 5 times per day the loudspeakers come alive breaking the silence of the narrow alley ways and hustle and bustle of the spice market and Grand Bazzaar. The arab world has always amazed me. There is something so exotic and so different. The call to prayer is truly beautiful and you can hear the devotion, passion, love, and dedication of the Imam's voice in each carefully articulated note. It is not something that cannot be explained... it has to be experienced.

There seems to be some strife between the Turkish world and Arab world. The Turkish people are like an open book - very approachable, curious, and friendly. The Arab people think that the Turkish are too Liberal andthe Turkish think the many Arabs are too conservative. I never got to have a deep and meaningful conversation... but there seemed to be some slight undertones.


The Turkish people are so friendly and each and everynight I made a new friend. The first night was Wissam - a 30 year old guy from Baghdad. He was an amazing fellow and we talked politics, religion, life, opportunity, foreign affairs, the economy, etc... The things that I learned about what is really going on in Iraq are saddening. You would think with all of the news media we would get some form of the real story... and we do. But, far too many fail to critically think or carry out a full analysis of the 'real story'. The US has created a very tough life for the Iraqi people, no jobs, the infastructure is coming back... but still tons of violence and poverty everywhere.

Friday night was my final night in Istanbul. I began the evening with a leisuring dinner at 360 Restaurant. No sign, no advertising, nothing outside of the building. I saw some people coming out, I heard music, and after 8 fights of stairs and a candle shrouded curving staircase I walked into one of the most amazing places I have seen. Think the Sky Bar in Los Angeles or the Gansevoort in New York City. But even better. Check out the link: http://www.360istanbul.com/flash.html


They had a beautiful black girl singing blues... soft, smooth, sexy voice. And then the silk curtains come down from the cieling and the acrobats walk out. Cirque du Soleil in Istanbul? Not quite.. but close. Suspended 25 feet above the restaurant floor, and supported by long, flowing fabric - twists and turns abound. Dinner and and show... but it gets even better. This restaurant over looks all of Istanbul and the minute the acrobats finished.... one of the most impressive lighting storms I have ever witnessed takes the city by storm. And.. I have a birds eye view of it all - towering over the entire city - The entire restaurant turns quiet and then the oohs and aahs begin. I savor each and every drop of my Italian wine and let the Tom Kha Gai soup linger... The city is ablaze with light - reflections bounce off minaret of the blue mosque - the blueish green waters of the Bospherous - and the infamous Tower of Galata. And a roaring rain storm pelts the floor to cieling windows.

It gets better... we live in a small world. I mean.. I have met people all over the world and you can usually form some connection. Same country - same state... but how about same city and a high school less than 10 miles away? Behind me are 3 girls... stop it... I didn't even to try pick up on them. I swear. Anyways.. there are these 3 girls behing me speaking english. So I have to ask - where they are from. London, they reply. But they have no accent - so out comes the truth. Colorado, Idaho, and Nevada. Really.. where in Nevada. Reno! Seriously? What high school? Reed High School? Seriously? How old are you? Do you know...? What are the odds? Crazy!!! We say our goodbyes and they take their table.

I sit alone. The stark white and freshly starched table cloth rubs my hand as I gently swirl my wine and think...and I become aware. I am the only single diner in this entire place. Everyone is coupled off - the soft glow of the red candles illuminating their expressions... their smiles, their intense gaze into their partners eyes. It was something very romantic... maybe even mystical. Sitting atop a city wth an amazing amount of history - the gateway to the east - and home to 3 of the worlds most famous civilizations.

And then as he lightning storm comes to a close Hasan - a worker at my hotel shows up at 360 and tells me - "you are coming with me". Hasan is a super cool guy - young, fun, hip and Turkish. I went out with him and 3 of his Turkish friends. And we went to a "REAL" Hip Hop club. Please not the italics... it was cool. Good music.. people in thugged out clothes, girls grinding all over the dance floor... not what you think. You touch a good turkish girl and you die! Seriously... they are off limits big time. After 3 hours of hip hop.. we have enough. They ask me if I want to go somewhere fun... and of course - I oblige. It is all about the experience right! 10 minutes later and 5 flights of stairs we are again at the top of a building and we walk into thumping house music and a room ablaze with lazer lights. Tons of beautiful guys, girls, and well... wait a second. She looks like a guy... but is dressed like a girl... and she is way to tall to be a girl... Hasan looks over at me and smiles... "can you tell the difference?' We have a big laugh.. .and after a few beers and some playful flirting I retire to my room at 5 am and fall asleep watching the highlights of the Real Madrid football team.

I spend Sunday at the Salvador Dali exposition.. Dali is amazing!
I know his works well from living in Madrid and I still tear up at how beautiful and amazing his paintings are. So far ahead of his time... and it seems that so many artists are. That is what realism andpost moderism are about right? Going somewhere that we have never been. Setting the tone for exploration and interpretion. Is that really what an artist is? A progressive thinker?